MT FIELDS

Our first full day staying at our Airbnb near Mount Field was one we had been eagerly anticipating. We set off early for a scenic road trip through Tasmania's remote south-west wilderness, with our destination being the spectacular Gordon Dam, travelling via the iconic Lake Pedder.

The drive itself was an adventure. As we headed around 150 kilometres west from Mount Field National Park, the landscape gradually transformed into a vast wilderness of rugged mountain ranges, some dusted with snow, dense forests and endless stretches of untouched beauty. It quickly became apparent why this region is considered one of Tasmania's last true wilderness areas.

One unexpected stop along the way was a thought-provoking artwork called Bitumen Bones, situated beneath the dramatic Sentinel Range in the Southwest National Park. Created by Tasmanian artist Alex Miles, the installation is a moving tribute to the beauty and harsh realities of this wild landscape. Inspired by Tasmanian poet Sarah Day's reflective poem Wombat, the artwork combines a rammed-earth quartzite wall, symbolising sun-bleached bones, with striking black steel wings representing the forest ravens that gather along the roadside. Positioned beside the Gordon River Road, it invites travellers to pause, reflect on the fragility of life, and appreciate both the remarkable scenery and our connection to it. It was one of those unexpected discoveries that left a lasting impression.

Continuing on, we reached Lake Pedder, where the vast expanse of water surrounded by rugged mountains and pristine bushland created a breathtaking panorama. The stillness of the lake and the untouched wilderness made it one of those places where you instinctively stop, take a deep breath, and simply absorb the beauty around you.

From there we continued on to the highlight of the day, the remarkable Gordon Dam.

Nothing quite prepares you for your first glimpse of this engineering masterpiece. Standing an impressive 140 metres high, Gordon Dam is one of the tallest dams in Australia, holding back the immense waters of Lake Gordon. The scale of the structure is simply staggering.

Walking out onto the observation platform certainly challenged our fear of heights. Looking over the railing into the immense chasm below was enough to make our knees wobble, but it was impossible not to be captivated by the breathtaking view. The contrast between the towering concrete wall and the pristine wilderness surrounding it creates a truly unforgettable spectacle.

It is remarkable to think that such an extraordinary feat of engineering exists in one of the most remote and untouched corners of Tasmania. 

The following morning, before continuing on to our next destination, we spent some time exploring a little more of the beautiful area surrounding our Airbnb, including the picturesque farm where we had been staying. We awoke to what could only be described as a winter wonderland. Overnight temperatures had fallen to –4°C, leaving the entire property blanketed in sparkling frost. As the rising sun filtered through the morning mist, every tree, fence post and blade of grass glistened like crystal. Even our hire car and the beehive were coated in thick ice. Although it was freezing cold, it was impossible not to stand and admire the sheer beauty of such a peaceful winter morning.

Before leaving the Mount Field area, we visited another hidden gem... The Salmon Ponds, a place steeped in both history and natural beauty. Established in 1861, it is the oldest trout hatchery in the Southern Hemisphere and holds a significant place in Australia's fishing history as the birthplace of trout in the country and the foundation of Tasmania's world-renowned trout fishery.

Strolling through the heritage grounds felt like stepping back into another era. The beautifully preserved stone buildings, historic hatchery and tranquil fish ponds are surrounded by magnificent English-style gardens, complete with towering trees from around the world, manicured hedges and sweeping lawns. Early European settlers designed the estate to recreate a familiar landscape from home, introducing a variety of European plants and animals to Tasmania.

Among those introductions was Atlantic salmon, valued not only for recreational fishing but also for its potential economic benefits. After several unsuccessful attempts to transport live eggs halfway around the world, history was finally made in May 1864 when the first live salmon, together with a small number of trout eggs, successfully arrived at The Salmon Ponds. That achievement laid the foundation for Tasmania's thriving trout fishery, which continues to attract anglers from around the world today.

With one last look around this fascinating piece of Tasmania's history, we climbed back into the car and continued our journey, excited for whatever adventures lay ahead.